Sunday 31 July 2016

Last post...

Those following on Facebook will know that we are home and dry now - well, given that Harwich Beer Festival was in full swing when we got home, "dry" is not quite the right term.

I'll put a few final pictures on here and then say cheerio till the next time.

On Thursday at Douarnenez rain was forecast so it seemed the perfect day to get a bus to Quimper and then another on to Brest to collect Victoria's lorry. The rather grey view below is from the bridge in Chateaulin. With hindsight not the best route to take with a truck so we decided not to drive this way with Victoria on the back.

Chateaulin from the truck

Yachts come up to Chateaulin and we made a mental note to perhaps try this on a future visit.

Proof of yacht life inland at Chateaulin


We parked the lorry where marina staff had suggested and returned to the festival. Luckily something inspired us to go and check on our vehicle a couple of days later and we found this cheery note from the town advising us that due to the setting up of a circus we'd have to move - great!

Quite polite but firm
 Pinder's Circus did indeed turn up on Monday morning and set up an enormous Big Top. By mid-afternoon where we had been parked there were 2 elephants munching on whatever elephants munch - in this case including the handbag of a woman who got too close. (The keeper helped her get it back but probably only because leather and lipstick were not to Nellie's taste - wrong colour perhaps?).

We were amazed that after 2 performances that same day the circus started packing up again and in the morning they were gone - so much work for just one day!
Big Top

Down it all comes again the same day

Moving on from the circus which is not really the point of this blog - back to boats and their folks. We were pleased to meet unexpectedly some old friends while in Douarnenez and in both cases the encounters took place near the toilet facilities - not sure whether that is significant but have made a note for future.

When in France in 2011 for the Semaine du Golfe de Morbihan we made friends with a couple of Frenchmen called Ronan and Yves. They were sailing Ronan's small working boat and as such were in the same "fleet" as we were with Victoria. I have Ronan and Yves to thank for what little traditional boat vocabulary I have which was gleaned from amateurish sketches on paper serviettes at various crew functions - topsail (fleche) and bowsprit (bout dehors) have stuck, the rest is lost. We thought we might see them again here and at Brest I did in fact bump into Ronan again although I didn't recognise him. He helpfully supplied the entry code for the loo block and only after I'd disappeared inside did he realise he knew me. Too late! At Douarnenez we finally met up and renewed our acquaintance (nearer to the bar than the loos you'll be glad to hear).

Second encounter took place in a pub in Dz (hope you don't mind if I abbreviate, everyone else does). Howard met (by the gents) an ex-colleague from the workboats who has returned to working on tall ships and was here in command of the lovely Kaskelot, a wooden 3-masted barque built in 1948 and one of the largest wooden ships to remain in commission. Later in the week Keith gave us a full tour and I took this photo of the rigging against the blue sky whilst they inspected the engines.

Kaskelot sails under the red ensign - here you see her French courtesy flag

Our crew wristbands allowed us free entry to the Maritime Museum which seemed as good a way as any of keeping out of the sun (or the bar) for a while so we had a look around.


Old fishing boats and some fabulous old photos taken in 1907

Viviane claims to be the oldest racing yacht in France


I was mesmerised by Viviane - for being so old (built for racing in 1860), for her riveted sheet metal hull and for such ridiculous clouds of sail - there were lovely photos of her sailing.

Hard to fill sails indoors but the display looked striking

We didn't spend all our time ashore, we went out sailing a few times making sure to show off to the crowds on the quaysides along with the other boats. After one such display Alistair skipper of Witch reported that he'd been watching from the grandstand when he realised the commentator had nothing to say to the crowd about the little English boat sailing past. He rushed up to give the man a few details and found himself on the microphone giving a quick potted history of Victoria - in French. Thank you Alistair!!

All good things must come to an end and soon enough the time comes for our lift out. The 40 tonne travel hoist at Brest cost €196 but this little crane at Dz did the job in reverse for just €22 (special festival rate of course).

Howard positioning the strops, I'm up by the crane interpreting (and taking pics)

Out she comes

We are in no particular rush to finish our holiday so once everything has been made secure we enjoy an aperitif and a dinner nearby and spend the night on board on the lorry. We then set off on Tuesday and travel for a few hours each day making 3 hops to get to Calais for the ferry.

First stop is campsite near Cancal

View of the campsite from the coastal path

Green cockpit cover as windbreak and picnic blanket - BBQ on the grass

Easy!

Second stop at St Valery en Caux where Victoria goes hedge sailing

No BBQ here - we walk into town and eat mussels (again!)

Cosy interior - it's nothing but beds (and plate box in the middle)

Open hatch covered for the night

Last stop Gravelines then it's time for the ferry home
We were unaffected by the long delays which have plagued some travellers heading the other way in recent days although every security check we went through involved detailed searches and questioning (of course the dog can smell "people" on the boat - that's cos we've been sleeping on it for over 3 weeks!). 
Looking forward to our own bed at home and some good English beer.

That's all folks - many thanks for following our travels!

Tuesday 26 July 2016

Douarnenez - boats and their folks

Sailing gently out past Hardy at anchor - largest East Coast gaffer here.


With hindsight the "blog" format has not been particularly well suited to this trip. Unlike our Round Britain voyage we have not had many quiet hours on the water for contemplation and composition. It's been busy and sociable so we've been too preoccupied with enjoying it to write about it.
There's also the fact that for 6 days in a row, first at Brest and then here, the scenery and the programme hasn't changed much from day to day. And while we're in apology mode I have to admit my best photos are on the camera and won't be published till we get home.

So it's phone pictures and captions again now, which would work perfectly well on Facebook but as you're here now ...

Historic replicas...

Tall ships....

Famous ships...

..and little Victoria sharing a buoy with East Breeze

Marion, skipper of East Breeze...


...who can fit 6 in her cockpit...

...and who cooks a mean fish stew.

Selfie to prove I was there too




Sunday 24 July 2016

Douarnenez in pictures

Wed 23rd July - views

It's another 6 days of festival, smaller and more convivial than Brest as we'd  been told but a bigger prettier town than we had expected.

Here are a few views, Victoria is tucked in there somewhere on a mooring.









Saturday 23 July 2016

Grand Parade

Tuesday 19th July - Brest to Douarnenez



Time to shake off festival torpor, say good bye to Brest and get out on the water for the highlight of this trip: the Grand Parade.
1,000 boats will set off and sail round the coast towards Douarnenez. Smallest boats are to set off first as we are the slowest and in any case moored furthest out on the rafts. We get a big bonus for making our early start as we attract the attention of a man on the quay operating a drone. It turns out he is from the Telegramme newspaper and observant friends (in Holland!) spot Victoria appearing several times in the first 3 mins 30 of a video on the Telegramme website.
(I have posted the link on Facebook).

It starts quietly enough as you'll see in the video but by the time we get to the picturesque rocky bits there are hundreds of boats. We sail well clear as we need the clear air to keep our sails filled.

I think this was the Hermione, French frigate and star of the Show

West country trading ketch Irene



Festival last day

Monday 18th July

We can't believe it's still going strong. We thought the 6 day date span might involve a bit of poetic licence but no, still crowds of visitors paying to mill about, admire boats and be sold to.  Hundreds if not thousands a day have booked trips out on square riggers or old work boats and the music from the main stage is as loud as ever. On a Monday!

Moules frites and beer for us again (might even be the same photo as before - sorry).

Today is supposed to be "Angleterre" day and the Flotille Anglaise is supposed to parade at 15.30. It's a very low key parade as no one has coordinated it. The announcements keep mentioning Old Gaffers as if this included all the English boats and perhaps this is one reason why it is mostly OGA boats which participate, including a good east coast contingent: Witch, Random and Victoria. Leader from Brixham takes part (so we follow her of course!).
Amelia Rose is the only pilot  cutter to join in though there are several others here and Grayhound has no guests so it's  a day off and he'll only join in if they pay him!

Perhaps we are all a bit festivaled out.


Wednesday 20 July 2016

Festival Day 5 - wot no wifi

Sunday 17th July

This blogger is getting frustrated with lack of WiFi connection for uploading photos. Each time we find a good spot it seems to get saturated and is no good when we return. There are thousands of visitors milling round every day and it is uncomfortably hot (c'est la canicule!).
32 degrees someone says and even higher forecast for tomorrow. Brittany is not used to this and neither are we.

Boating lake with all the right rigs represented

After my merchandise stint we wander round parts of the festival not so far seen. We'll never take it all in and we can't believe the crowds.

Somehow the stand rota has failed so I end up back there again. Best place to be is on the water - but then we are biased.







Festival Day 4 - sailing again

Saturday 16th July



Barry had a later night than us so we have to remind him we agreed to all go sailing on Random. After excellent coffee and chat on Windbreker (Else's cappuccino is the best) we cast off.

It seems very quiet out there to start with but by the time we turn to head back it suddenly seems as if everyone is piling out of the harbour to come and play. A fine sight.

Big ships come out to play


In the evening Ben has organised (and teams have prepared for) a mini boat race across our basin between English and French in boats they have designed and rigged themselves.

Thanks to the ingenuity and diligence of Gwenili crewmen Jasper and Liam (Martin's nephew) it is an English boat which wins. In fact the only boat to complete the course.

Jasper and Liam with winning boat. Martin's advice was to model it on Dirty Girty and it worked!


For style and humour the French boat with rigging made from bras and thongs (provided by Mado) is a clear winner

Rather blurred image of underwear boat



Another French boat with sails made from OGA burgee and Corsican national flag. DNF. Did not finish.


Well done organiser  Ben, great event!